Author

Javier Arranz

INDUSTRY NEWS

Omega brings the caliber 321 back to life

by Javier Arranz
written by Javier Arranz

If we would ask any vintage-aficionado about their favorite chronograph movement from the last century, they will most certainly say the Omega caliber 321. This chronograph movement resulted from a collaboration between Omega and Lemania. Firstly called the CH27 C12 project (Lemania 2310), it was used in high-end watch brands such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet or Vacheron Constantin.

Firstly introduced in 1946, it was every collector’s dream. Colum wheel chronograph, robust but elegant, nice 44h power reserve and three registers. Sadly, production was ceased in 1968.

It’s not new that this caliber is mostly known for its appearence inside the famous “Moonwatch“, the Omega Speedmaster from 1957 to 1965, and later inside the Omega Speedmaster Professional from 1965 to 1968.

Omega Caliber 321. Source: Watchbase

We can say that today is a happy day for Omega collectors and vintage watch lovers. Omega released the long waited announcement that the caliber 321 was back in production:

3… 2… 1… We have lift-off! #OMEGA is proud to announce that the famous Calibre 321 is back in production!

The watch community as far as we could see, has positive reactions about this news:

Wei Koh (founder of The Rake and Revolution Watch) says: “This is incredible”

 

 

According to Fratello Watches: 

The biggest question remains: which watch will Omega use for this new caliber 321 movement? You can bet it will be a Speedmaster, but what model and will it be the Moonwatch or a different version? What will be the effect on the price and how many of them will be available? Let the guessing begin. Omega promises us to share more news and details with us in the coming months. You must know, we are thrilled!

Raynald Aeschlimann, CEO of Omega, said, “It’s amazing that so many people are passionate about the Calibre 321. We produced the last one in 1968 and fans have never stopped talking about it. That shows how special it is. We’re very excited to finally meet their wishes and have gone to great efforts to bring the movement back.”

This movement will not be used in a limited edition watch, but there will be a limitation in production for the reasons stated above. Omega reveiled that there will be something in gold, for sure. Also, this movement will not be used in any of the upcoming Apollo 11 Limited Edition models in 2019.

Something worth looking into is the effect on prices of vintage 321’s. Is there going to be an effect? Many people believe that one factor that made the 321 caliber very desirable was the low amount of calibers that were available, creating a shortage that will of course increase the price. After all, Omega is producing now the cal 321 increasing the quantity of calibers out in the world, and therefore, we could expectate a decrease in prices.

Other way of looking into this is by saying that they are totally different markets that are not correlated after all. Vintage is vintage and modern is modern, and the release will not have any impact on vintage prices.

Here at Stem&Bezel, we would like to hear your thougths. You can write us an email or find us on Instagram, we would love to chat with you.

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Watch History

Gérald Genta and his influence to the watch industry

by Javier Arranz
written by Javier Arranz

Gérald Charles Genta, better known by Gérald Genta in the watch industry and community, was a very well-known artist and watch designer. He was born in Geneva, in 1931. At 20 years old he finished his studies and training in jewelery and goldsmith (metalworker specialized in gold and other precious metals) in Switzerland. He has worked for some very reputable brands, such as IWC, Universal Genève, Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe.

He started his professional career in Universal Genève, designing one of the most iconic models of the brands: the Universal Genève Polerouter.

Universal Genève Polerouter Date Source: hespokestyle

This watch was designed in the 1950’s to commemorate SAS’s (Scandanavian Airlines Systems) polar flights from New York/Los Angeles to Europe. This watch started being called the “Polarouter”, although later was renamed to “Polerouter”.

Impressive that Genta was able to design such an iconic watch just in his 20’s, but his journey didn’t stop here. Later on, he collaborated with other brands making some of their most iconic and sought after designs. Among the wide list, we can find some that are must to point out:

  • Omega Constellation (1959):

Omega Constellation Source: Stem&Bezel Shop

  • IWC Ingenieur (1976):

IWC Ingenier Automatic Source: Monochrome Watches

And the list doens’t stop here. He also did design the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Both watches, although similar, are very different. They feature fixed bracelets, a detail that Genta surely liked (as his most iconic watch designs had one), a geometrical case (more pronounced on the Royal Oak) and really similar dial configurations (initially, time only watches, but through time they have been manufactured in several variations, featuring a date window, chronograph complications and tourbillion).

On the left, the Patek Philippe Nautilus. On the right, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Source: Fratello Watches

It seems that his carrer doens’t stop. He also started his very own brand in 1969 named after him, Gérald Genta. There, he developed some incredible complicated watches, such as the Gérald Genta Octo Granda Sonnerie Tourbillion, a watch that contained a sonnerie mechanism with four gongs and emulated Westminster Quarters bell ring at each quarter and on the hour, it had the same melody that rung London’s Big Ben. Of course, this watch didn’t cost what we can have in change in our pockets, it went for US$810,200.

If this is not impressive enough, he also developed the Grande Sonnerie Retro, the wold’s most complicated wristwatch at that time and priced at close to US$2 million.

His career was broader that what we can cover with this article, but one thing is for sure, he was one of the most renouned watch designers of all time, and he will always be appreciated by collectors.

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BWK (BASIC WATCH KNOWLEDGE)

Patina or Water Damage?

by Javier Arranz
written by Javier Arranz

If you’ve been in this world for just a few months, I’m sure you’ve heard about the term “patina”. You may have come across some videos or posts relating to this matter.

Patina or water damage? Meanwhile some people try to hide the real meaning of that term, the most simple and honest answer is the following:

Like it or not, patina is water damage. This water damage causes the ageing of the dial in a really particular and unique way. It may turn a dark brown, usually called “tropical” among collectors, or it may cause some bubbling on the watch dial. Now, it is certain that patina can make a watch more attractive throughout collectors and newcomers to the industry. For example, we can see heavy patina’ed watches that are really sought after:

Omega Speedmaster ref 105.003 Source: OnlyVintage

From my honest point of view, I think patina is one of the most charming features of a vintage watch. Is it water damage (or humidity)? Yes. But, as long as the inner workings of the watch are clean, I would definately buy watches with patina. And I have.

One thing that collectors defend, and that I agree on, is that patina gives the watch its character and its personality. Your aged watch is unique, and once it’s sold or gone, it’s gone forever. I remember when I first bought a heavy patina’ed watch. It was an Omega Seamaster calendar.

Omega Seamaster Calendar Source: Stem&Bezel

It was just beautiful. That orange-brown dial made it unique! And I loved it. So, after defining and seeing some patina, here are some tips to help you buy watches with patina:

  • Always take a look at the movement. If the dial has been exposed to humidity, there’s also a high chance of the movement being in need of a service (if it hasn’t alredy been done).
  • Uniform patina, usually is more collectible than random spots of patina throughout the dial.
  • The brown-ish, the better. We really enjoy tropical dials.
  • Be careful with chronograph watches that are heavy patina’ed, as the servicing costs for those are more expensive.
  • Buy what you really like.

I hope now everything is more clear around the famous term that, altough beautiful, it’s still damage.

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Collector's Knowledge

What is a DON bezel?

by Javier Arranz
written by Javier Arranz

We’ve all been there, checking some watch ads until suddenly we see: Speedmaster with DON bezel (usually next to a rather large price tag). Why is it so expensive comparing it to its fellow brothers? What does it mean DON on a bezel?

At first sight, a non-trained eye, may see all the Speedmasters’ bezels as the same: rounded black shape with a tachymeter scale on it. But we, as collectors, should give a twist and see a little closer.

The Speedmaster line was initially produced on 1957 by Omega. They started producing the reference CK2915, a piece with the well sought after broad arrow hands and curved lugs.

This piece includes the famous DON bezel, meaning that the tachymetre scale has a particular characteristic to it: the Dot Over Ninety (90). If we take a closer look, we can clearly see it:

Resultado de imagen de DON bezel

DON Bezel from WatchUSeek. It was available but It’s now SOLD.

Compare it now with a non-DON bezel Speedmaster, let’s see if you can spot the difference:

Resultado de imagen de Vintage Omega speedmaster

Source: Sansom Watches

This bezels were produced and used in the Speedmasters until 1970, but be careful, as some of them have a replacement bezel that was produced later in time. This is because some of the owners took their watches for service and Omega replaced those original DON bezels with replacements.

That’s why these watches are constantly rising in price, less of them are available through time and the demand is increasing. If you have one of them, take good care of it because it’s worth a fortune!

Don’t get me wrong, pieces with replacement bezels are also really attractive, but their collectible aspect is less compared it to a fully original piece.

“Credit for this article: “Fratello Watches” check the original article for further and more detailed information here.”

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INDUSTRY NEWS

The new Oris Movember 2018 Edition

by Javier Arranz
written by Javier Arranz

This week I had the chance to handle the brand new Oris Movember Big Crown watch, and here you will find my thoughts on it.

Source: myself. Watch provided by: Nicols Jewelers

The Oris Movember edition is a watch released yearly by Oris to cooperate with the Movember Foundation. A nice quality watch at a really good price, just below 2000€. We will take a look at the specifications later on.

The Movember Foundation works to provide consciousness to men about the most frequent issues they face during their lives: testicle cancer, prostate cancer, mental health and phisical inactivity. One of their main goals is to raise money to help the investigation of those causes.

Said that, Oris is supporting this cause by trying to raise the ambitious amount of 100,000CHF (87,566€) to help this cause. Not only Oris is trying to reach this goal by selling this watch, they also are auctioning a a lot of experiences, but thye’re also receiving donations from all aroudn the world. These experiences range from a blind date with Oris to a whole watchmaking experience, where you get to go and see how they build your own Big Crown watch, meet the watchmakers and see the Oris factory in Hölstein.

The ORIS BIG CROWN MOVEMBER 2018 EDITION

Now let’s get to the watch, beautifully sized at 40mm (a little too big for us, vintage geeks, but some of us can pull it off), it’s the perfect watch for a new collector, and here’s why:

  • You get to experience a brand with so much history and heritage
  • For the price, you are getting a high quality watch with the caliber Oris 754. 38h of power reserve, 28800 bph, and of course, automatic. Oh, did I mention it was in-house?
  • A gorgeous variation of one of the most famous complications throughout the watch world, the date function. Instead of the most common window at 3 o’clock, you get an outside date surrounding the inner hour markers. The date, as the name sais,it’s indicated by another hand, with a red point in it. Just beautiful.
  • I forgot to mention, it doesn’t have an open case back, but indeed has a beautiful one:

Source: myself. Watch provided by: Nicols Jewelers

  • It also comes with a really well-made strap. It has two iconic moustaches right between the stitches on the lugs representing the Movember movement.
  • Oris didn’t forget about us, watch geeks, and they give a custom Movember watch pouch, that also comes with a NATO signed with a moustache.

If you want to support this cause, you can get a very well made watch, or if you’re on the “not-so-deep pockets” you can grow a moustache or a beard yourself to show your support!

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BWK (BASIC WATCH KNOWLEDGE)

Quartz vs Mechanical

by Javier Arranz
written by Javier Arranz

We’ve all been there. Our new watch arrives and we all excited run to set the time and put it on our wrist as soon as possible. But wait, my watch doesn’t tick! It might be because the provider didn’t put a battery in it, but most of the times, it’s because you are the (I hope) proud owner of a mechanical watch!

Okay, now I know my watch is “mechanical”, but what in hell does that mean? That means that your watch isn’t powered by any kind of battery or electricty, it is powered by the energy that is carefully stored in the wound spring (mainspring). Still sounding like chinese? Don’t worry, we got you!

  • Quartz Watches

Your average and most common watch, and the watch that got all of us interested in watches. Powered by a battery that need periodic replacement to keep working (most of the times, depending of the battery tipe, around 2-3 years). But don’t get me wrong, this watches are (in one way, and just one way) better than mechanical timepieces: they keep excellent time.

These movements are usually on the more affordable side, mostly mass produced and with minimal craftmanship (seiko-fanatics, I see you, we will talk about Spring Drive in another time). This type of powered watches started to be produced during the Quartz Crisis during the 70’s.

  • Mechanical watches

When we’re talking about mechanical watches, we are talking about watches powered by energy slowly released by a spring, and this implies some part-movement inside of the watch. Altough they might seem the same for new collectors, manual-wind and automatic calibers are not the same.

  •  Manual Wind movements
Resultado de imagen de quartz watch movement

Manual wind caliber. Source: Henrysfinejewelery

We say that a manual wind caliber is the one that needs the active human action to provide energy to the watch. The way of doing this? Rotating the crown clock-wise. This action is called “winding”. This process is simple, but we have to take care when doing it. Most modern watches have a mechanism by which you can’t overwind the watch, you will feel a stop when winding it and if you continue and force it, you break it. Be careful with vintage watches, as not all of them have this mechanism! You will feel that the crown starts to resist itself from winding more, making it harder to turn. When you feel that, stop winding!

  • Automatic movements

We’ve all heard that story, the existance of watches that work through our PULSE! Maybe you heard it from your grandparents, or even parents, but that is a totally misconception. An automatic caliber, altough very similar to a manual wound one, it winds itself through a rotating plate, commonly called rotor, that (most of the times) is on top of the movement and it’s visible. This plate rotates around itself to generate power, that is stored on the mainspring. These watches can be also wound the “traditional” way, by turning the crown clockwise, but most of their benefits is that you don’t have to worry about your watch stopping in the middle of the day or winding it every morning, because it “charges” itself with your movement.

Resultado de imagen de automatic watch movement

Automatic watch caliber. The rotor is the golden semicircle. Source: Quora

 

Now you know what are the different types of watch movements, so don’t let yourself be fooled again!

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STEM&BEZEL

The start of our journey

by Javier Arranz
written by Javier Arranz

Everything has to start somewhere. For us, our journey starts here, with our first post on the Stem & Bezel brand new page. We’re very excited to start this adventure, and would like to invite you to follow along. As Patrick Bet David said: “We don’t want a one night stand with this business, we want a marriage”, we will be here on the short but also on the long run. Expect us trying to become one of the most important vintage watches dealers and educators in Europe! We have a dream, and we will persue it until we get it.

If you want to come along us, don’t forget to subscribe to our newsletter on our home page!

Thank you for your attention.

Javier Arranz Barquero

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